Image editing Instructions & Information




Image Editing instructions:
#1   Basic settings for image editing Always save an unedited copy of the original photo so you can always go back and redo the image if you don't like the results.

Each individual gallery image will show the DPI resolution sizing and settings which will work best with that particular photo.

Important: read the computer capacity instructions on #8 before changing size or resolution because it can crash your computer if you are not set up to handle extremely large files.

#2   Photo editing software



I highly recommend using Adobe Photoshop for photo editing (not the edition version). All of my information is based on using this particular program so if you are using a different editor, the tool names may vary depending on the photo editing program.
#3   Image distortion techniques used by NASA and the Navy.


NASA uses 5 methods to distort photos: Excessive artificial coloring, excessive contrast shading, pixelization, reduced resolution and blurring (fogging). The Navy uses a modified version of image distortion including excessive brightness, extremely reduced resolution, blurring (fogging), smudging, artificial coloring and raw file substitution. The distortion methods vary from image to image. All are reduced resolution. On some, the entire planet has been blurred and distorted.... ever notice that the Mars images no longer show the canals? They are still there, but NASA has camouflaged the evidence. 

Black & white images such as those on the moon, have a lot more details of structures and crafts than color images such as those of Mars. But unlike the moon images, the black and white photos on mars do not contain as much detail as the color images.

#4 Types of image formats 


Note: Black & White moon images from the US Navy Clementine Brower usually set the mode as "indexed color" which will not permit use of burn, dodge or other editing tools. You will need to change the mode to "RGB color" before you start editing.

Tif and bmp images contain the highest levels of detailed resolution. These are much larger files when increasing the DPI resolution and are not small enough to post or e-mail. 

Jpg and Gif discard a lot of sharpness and detail but are smaller files for storage, e-mailing and web posting. You will lose a lot of detail when using this type of image format to edit with. However, in situations where the original photos have excessive artifacts and crosshatching, you may get smoother results by using a jpg image instead. 

Caution: Adobe Photoshop may balk at saving jpg images which are over 100 mb in size so you may have to reduce the DPI when saving and then increase the DPI to full size again when you wish to edit or view it later. BMP and Tif do not have this file size problem.

#5 distortions caused by enlargements. When DPI resolution is increased several hundred percent, it will create noticeable crosshatch squares. Some of this can be minimized with careful contrast tool correction, however, it is important not to misinterpret these varying styles of crosshatching as structures or fields. These often look like farmland fields from the air. It takes a lot of practice to know which areas are image layout artifacts and which are genuine structures.

<------------- crosshatching example

#5   Artificial colorization correction NASA is particularly bad about using excessive false colorization of images to hide the evidence. Some of the colors like dark blue are completely fake to throw you off the trail. So, the best thing to do for editing, is to reduce the image master hue (color) saturation by 85% to almost black & white.  I usually do this before I increase the image resolution. Dark blue is not a natural color. Silver is about the only element which is blue... but a much more creamy blue when found in its natural state. The blue on these images is completely false coloring to hide structures they do not want you to see.  Areas where they have placed dark blue should have the contrast lightened using a dodge tool. You only want to lighten certain areas so do not increase the brightness for the entire image. The white clouds are also false and you should use a burn tool to melt these away.

<--------- NASA false coloring

Note: Removing the colors should be your first editing action before doing any repairs or enlargement. The colors are artificial and will mask the hidden structures. Color will also cause distortion & misleading problems when you are using a burn tool to darken contrast.

#6   Pixelization damage repair. 

Note: Pixelation damage repair must be performed BEFORE you increase the DPI resolution. It is ok to temporarily zoon to get a closer look while you are working on it. Increasing the DPI before you repair the pixelization will cause irreparable distortion of the structures.

Pixelization is a distorted area of dark and light checkerboard squares  artificially added by NASA on certain images to hide structures, water and crafts which they don't want you to see. That means you need to focus your attention on those areas of the images. The pixelation repair must be performed BEFORE you increase the DPI resolution. It is ok to temporarily do a simple zoom in on the photo while you are doing the repair. 

To repair pixelization damage, select your blur tool using a soft round brush, mode should be set for lighten at 4% strength and the brush size should be about the size of 2-4 of the pixels you are attempting to repair. Lightly move the brush over the darkest pixels (which will look like small dark square specks which do not belong in the image due to being deliberately added by NASA) to delicately soften and lighten the dark pixels. Do not rework or over work the pixels or you will end up with a blurry mess. No more than 2 passes over the dark pixel damaged areas. You don't need to completely eradicate the dark pixels, just soften and lighten them slightly.

Next, you need to darken the whitest pixels in the artificially pixelized checkerboard sections. The only change you will need to make to the blur tool is to change the mode setting to darken. Use the same method to go over the white pixels as you did the dark ones.

Pixelized area hiding objects

#7   Image resolution & computer capacity

WARNING: When DPI resolution is increased, some of these image file sizes can reach 24 mb to 285 gb EACH. When working with large images, especially the global images, it is recommended to cut the image into much smaller pieces before increasing the resolution. Your computer should have at least a bare minimum of 512mb processor, 512 mb RAM, (1-4 gb each would be much better) 5 gb disk cache space for your system memory cache and 5gb cache settings for Adobe photoshop settings, plus at least 20 gb hard drive space if you plan to copy and edit a lot of these images. (you can always add an external USB drive to store the images on.) 

When editing satellite images, you will need to drastically increase the image resolutions before you will be able to see the structure details. The amount the resolution should be increased will vary from image to image depending on the angle, distance, resolution and mode. Simply zooming in or enlarging will only result in creating large square pixels that will distort the image. The most effective method of enlarging the image is by drastically increasing the DPI resolution. However, the settings for each image can vary from 300 DPI to as much as 3500 DPI. For some images, a combination DPI and zoom increase may produce the best image details. 

On some images, I like to increase the DPI larger than I need and then reduce the zoom (zoom out) between 50-66% of actual size. This gives me more clarity of detailed resolution while I am editing. You need to see tiny detail while editing but general viewing is usually slightly lower resolution. You can always try different DPI and image enlargement combinations until you find one that works best for you. It will take a while for your eyes to adjust to working with satellite images before you are able to spot the tiny details. 

When you are finished with the image, you will want the photo to be at the best clarity.

#8   Contrast & brightness repair Contrast and brightness are fairly easy to fix but make sure you are not going to such extremes that it distorts or changes the core image. You are only trying to uncover or correct contrast and damages. Not to create something that is not there or modify the appearance. It is important to preserve the structures and objects in their original form.

Lightening dark areas:

If the image had areas of dark blue coloring, now showing up (after decolorizing) as a dark charcoal, use your dodge tool to lighten those areas. Use a  soft round brush setting, range set for midtones, exposure set at 5%. The brush size depends on the size of area you are trying to lighten. If it is a large, area set your brush size visually about the size of a quarter. For medium areas, make it the size of a nickel. For lightening small areas, size the brush to fit without overlapping the area you are working on. Do not overlighten to the point where you lose the definition of features and edges which are important parts of the structures you are trying to emphasize. You can also use this same tool to lighten heavily contrasted or black shadows which often hide interesting features which can be revealed by removing the dark shadow. Smooth, even flowing strokes are important. Subtle lightening is what you are trying to accomplish with exception of severely darkened areas... and this tool will completely remove any contrast. Do not overdo the lightening. You only want to find structures and other features... not remove them. I recommend saving your editing in stages under different file names in case you want to go back and undo your work. I frequently back up because I am not satisfied with the results. 

Often, the darkened areas are damaged to the point that they become smeary during the lightening process. There is not much you can do in those instances except to define the edges of the shapes.

Darkening & adding contrast:

Most of the time, you will find that the features and edges of the buildings will be faintly visible and will require surgically adding contrast only on those areas to bring out the existing features. For this, you will need to use the burn tool, select the soft round brush, range set for shadows, exposure set at 4% and the size should be small enough to darken your target areas without overlapping onto the adjacent areas. Be careful to use only moderate contrasting. You do not want to over darken these shadows, features and edges. For larger areas which need mild contrast, use the same burn tool and set the size to the size of a quarter on your screen and use smooth, even, soft strokes without overlapping. Circular strokes work better on rounded areas while long straight strokes work better on large backgrounds. For precision contrast of tiny areas, a pen/tablet mouse will be more effective but be careful not to overdarken the contrast or make it appear to be sketched. You only want to enhance the existing shadows and features, not make it look artificial.

#9   Residual Color hot spots If you did not remove enough of the color or have areas that required heavier contrast, using the burn tool can create color hot spots. You can correct this using the sponge tool set to desaturate at 25% and use soft motions blending over the area with a large enough brush tool to keep it smooth and natural.
#10 Blurring & fogging repair This is much more difficult to repair and sometimes all you can do is to fix as much as possible and leave the rest alone. Sometimes they outright blur objects. You can use contrast tools such as dodge or burn to define the shape of the area. If it looks like white clouds, use the burn tool on shadows or medium to melt away the clouds. Set the brush size visually between a nickel and quarter size and use circular strokes to bring out the shapes. If it is a dark blur or ground fog in appearance, use the dodge tool in the same manner. The sharpen tool may help in rare cases but be careful as it will damage your image if you go over the same spot more than twice. You will not be able to bring out the details or define the edges as well as you would like, but you can at least get an idea as to what the basic layout and shapes are.

Caution: overworking blurry, cloudy or foggy areas can become smeary and dirty in appearance.

#11 Smearing repair This is very difficult to repair. The only smeared images are on the Navy's lunar image browser. Depending on what was smeared, it is possible to use the burn tool to bring out some of the details on the smeared structure. But it is rare to be able to correct the entire smeared area. However, these smears are blatantly obvious attempts to deliberately obscure evidence of structures and crafts. So blatant that a child could see these areas have been deliberately damaged to hide structures from the public.


<------ Smears over structures on original Navy Clementine images

#12 Finished results Don't worry that the edited picture is not perfect. It is enough that you can clearly see the irrefutable evidence of structures, water and craft for yourself. By going to these efforts, you will know that the images are genuine and prove to yourself that there are truly colonies on the moon and mars.... and we have been lied to for decades. What seems to be utterly unbelievable will become a reality for you.